What problems do you have with the base. There are times when the base works and next day does not.

I will add a few comments on what to look for with older to the newer base since I have seen quite a few on the newer base that seem to have socket problems.

Most of the time the socket can present a no power problem since the center band no longer makes contact with the 40w bulb. What may have happened is the inner band has become flattened and with the base unplugged with a hook you will be able to lift it back up to make contact.

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Another problem to look into with older and yes even newer lamps is the off/on switch. The first thing to do would be to unscrew the switch screw and remove it then reinstall it again. There are times when the inner fine metal points are not making wire contact and this will remake the contact again. If still no go then a new switch will be needed. On older lamps there can also be a problem with the cord at the plug area where the wire over time from being pluged and unpluged as begun to seperate from the metal plugs.

One problem that I have seen on quite a few newer lamps is the bottom of the base with the lock nut washer missing. This will cause the bulb to be very hard to remove and also very hard to install all the way. This pic has that inner lock washer on.

On older vintage base/sockets before doing any more work on them install a socket extender with bulb to make sure all is well. What I have seen over years is that at times they have the socket adjusted lower and when using the newer China made bulbs it will only screw down so far before the glass shoulder of the bulb hits the inner base and will not make power contact.

It seems over time with the bulbs from China they are smaller in length not much but enought.

If you have to remove the cord the problem will be the lock shoulder cap removal. There are tools made just for this but at a $$cost. I have used used Lock Pliers also called Vise-Grips to crust that inner hold coller so the cap can be removed.

 

I use Vise-Grips and will tape around the area so if I loose grip I will not harm th finish. This will take time and you may want to practise on a already damaged base.

What it looks like up close without the tape around the base area. You need to press hard to push that inner contact down at the same time pull out slowly with out releasing the pliers.

The white plugs are easyer to deal with they are smaller and less pressure needed to make it happen.

Most of the time the sockets will have soldered wires added and if the socket or cord have to be replaced I will buy the socket with the screw on wire holders and not worry about soldering.  Home depot should have what you need.

When adding new wire cord I will once again buy a smaller cord and in white from Home depot. The newer lamps have a cheaper and thicker wire and using the pliers to recrush the wire back in place will be a pain without that special tool.

A trick I learned is to trim that inner hold guide and then recrush the plug on the wire This will be easy since that area is now smaller. The wire will still hold fine and will make this last part easy to replace. Again have the area taped as not to scratch the finish.

Another problem with the inner socket is after a while and even on new ones that I have seen that inner black or silver screw becomes loose and it becomes very hard to screw or unscrew that bulb. Once in a while and also after buying a new lamp check that screw to make sure it is tight. As always unplug before making it so.

There are times when the bulb it self has problems. A while ago the bulbs had the screw area done in brass but over time the bulbs have gotten cheaper and now have that aluminium/tin finish to them which will at times freeze to the inner socket and cause there own problems with power as you try to unscrew that bulb and twist the socket as well. Notice how much better looking and finished the brass version is.

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